B e i n g B a o

I went surfing solo for the first time yesterday after work. Loaded my gear in my car in the morning and then snuck out a little early to catch as much daylight as possible. Surfing alone can be terrifying. You, alone, with your fears…in the vast expanse of the ocean. Ok, not exactly. There’s plenty of other surfers out there doing what they do too. It’s still pretty scary if you’ve never done it before. My biggest fear with surfing is drowning, alone and…jaws haha. I guess with every activity one perceives as scary, it’s really all a mental thing. So I told myself it’ll be just fine, and it was. I caught some pretty decent small scale waves yesterday. I guess the downside of surfing alone…no one was there to see it.

As you can kinda tell from my posts lately, I have a newly reintroduced obsession with surfing. I started surfing in highschool when my bestfriend took me out one day during the summer and showed me the ways of the waves, and boy did it show me. Wipe outs after wipe outs, saltwater intake after saltwater intake. I even remember I lost a contact. It was frustrating and distressing and with each rough ‘n’ tumble in the water I became a little more dispirited about the whole damn thing. But..what it did that fateful day was planted itself a sensation within my soul. When I find myself not being able to do something right, it strikes a passion in myself to overcome it. That passion however laid idle for some time because of school and other activities. I have started going again more regularly and I have slowly seen my progress and that is what I want to keep track of and blog about.